Pillar Monster Feet

Make any pillar or post look like a monster with this fun monster foot yarn bomb. This park now has a monster of its own, with two feet, one on each basketball hoop! This monster is in Colorado Springs, though they have family all over. These particular monster feet were made with blue and yellow Red Heart yarn and a size L hook.

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These monster feet can also go at the bottom of pillars on homes and can have as many toes as you’d like. 3-4 is standard, though prehensile feet could have opposable thumbs, and freakish monsters could have countless toes! The monster foot at this house has a flag holder growing out of its foot!

Follow these basic instructions to make one of your own!

Monster Feet Pattern

Materials

Yarn: Two colors of any yarn will do. Blue and yellow medium weight acrylic is pictured.

Hook: size L (7.5 mm) [*Note: Use a smaller size hook to make monster feet more proportional for smaller pillars and posts.)

Yarn Needle

Stuffing

Abbreviation: hdc = half double crochet

Gauge: 3 hdc = 1 inch wide, 2hdc rows = 1 inch

Pillar Cozy/Foot Part (Color A)

Determine the circumference/length around the object being covered. Multiply that number times 3 to find how many chain stitches to make.

Row 1: hdc in 3rd stitch from hook and in every chain space to the end. Chain 2, turn.

Rows 2-10: Count the chain 2 spaces as the first hdc. Hdc to the end. Chain 2, turn. On the last row, do not chain 2. Cut and weave in end.

*Note: Make the pillar cozy as tall or short as you’d like. You may want more or less than 10 rows.

Toes:

(Color B)

Chain 2

Round 1: 4 hdc in 2nd chain from hook. (4)

Round 2: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 3 stitch. (5)

Round 3: 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 4 stitches. Cut and weave in end. (6)

(Switch to color A)

Round 4: 2 hdc in each stitch around (12).

Round 5-10: hdc in each stitch around. Cut and weave in end.

Stuff toes with stuffing; sew onto bottom edge of the pillar cozy/foot part. Sew on 3 or 4 toes. Leave a space between two toes  if one is a prehensile toe. Sew the cozy to the base of a pillar or post of your choice.

Sock Monkey Ski Helmet Cover

Want to stand out on the ski slopes and have a little fun? Try crocheting a sock monkey ski helmet cover!

This is a simple and easy design to make, even if you’ve never made something without a pattern. For the best results it’s best to have the actual helmet on hand so you can make increases and decreases as necessary.  Below are some pseudo directions on how to make a sock monkey ski helmet cover of your very own!

Basic Instructions

Materials

Yarn: acrylic, wool, or any type desired.

Colors: Red, off white, black, brown and white variegated. You can hold one brown and one off white strand of yarn at the same time while doing the main portion of the monkey to get the variegated look.

Hook: size H or any preferred size. Smaller hooks will require more stitches but hold more snuggly.

Needle: large needle for sewing the various parts to the basic cover.

Abbreviations: dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sc = single crochet

To begin, if your helmet is more round you can start with a circle at the top. If it’s slightly more oval in shape, start with a short chain strand. The helmet cover I made was for the larger silver helmet. It is oval in shape so I started with a chain of about 8.

Off-white Color: Chain 8, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, then dc in the next 3 stitches, 5 dc on the end, 3 dc on the other side of the original chain spaces and an additional 4 dc on the other end.

**Join each round to keep the circles symmetrical. Chain 3 at the beginning of each dc round to act as the first dc.**

Altogether I made 4 dc rounds in off white. There is one dc for each stitch on the sides of the oval, and additional dc stitches added at the ends in a frequency to keep the oval flat.

Red Color: Sc for 2 rounds. Again, 1 sc for each of the side stitches and additional sc stitches on the ends to keep the piece flat.

Brown/Off-White Color: dc 6 rounds. The first 2 rounds you may want to add extra dc stitches at the ends to keep increasing the size. The last several rounds you should dc the same amount so it curves around the sides of the helmet. Check the size of the cover on the helmet periodically to make sure it is fitting correctly. Decreases (crocheting 2 stitches together) may be made to help conform as necessary.

Rounds 7-8, dc around until you get to the goggle area. If you want the helmet goggle holder to go over the helmet cover, you need to make an opening. To do so, simply stop at the goggle area and turn your work and dc in the opposite direction. Dc all the way back around to the goggle area leaving about 6 dc stitches unworked.

Rounds 9-10, dc around except under the front lip of the helmet. Sc decrease across the front of the helmet to cause it to curve around the body/lip of the helmet. This will naturally keep the cover attached

to the front of the helmet. Dc to the goggle area. Turn and work back around changing to sc decreases for the front lip of the helmet. At the end of the 10th round you should be back to the goggle opening. Chain 5 and join to the other side with a slip stitch. The goggle strap should help keep the helmet cover on in the back. Cut yarn and weave in end.

A few more dc rows may be added, but they do not go all the way around. Put the helmet cover on to see where to start the dc rows on the sides. Dc around the sides and back decreasing if you want more snugness.

*Note: The goggles will be strapped in this area. The helmet cover may make the goggles slip a little. You may not want the helmet cover to go all the way to the bottom of the sides/back of the helmet.

Sock monkey features:

Eyes/Black: (Make 2)

Round 1: Chain 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next stitch* around. Join with a slip stitch. Cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew the eyes to the head.

Mouth/Red & Off-White:

Round 1: (Red) Chain16, sc in 2nd chain from hook. 3 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc, 4 sc, 3 sc in last chain space. Working on the other side of the chain, 4 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc, 4sc. Join with a slip stitch. Cut yarn; weave in end.

Round 2: (Off-white) Starting at the end of the mouth, dc in all the sc stitches, hdc in the hdc stitches, and sc in all the dc stitches of the previous round. Make sure there are 5 dc on each end.

Mr. and Mrs. Sock Monkey

Note: You can make the round 3 dimensional or flat. A flat mouth will make it easier to put the goggles up on the front of the helmet. A 3 dimensional mouth makes it look a little more like sock monkey. A 3 dimensional mouth is shown in the picture above.

Round 3: For a 3 dimensional mouth, dc around not increasing or decreasing around. Join. Leave a long tail for sewing on to the head. Add 2 little black lines with black yarn to indicate the nostrils. Stuff lightly before sewing. (For a flat mouth, sc around adding a few stitches on the ends to keep it flat. Do no stuff. Add two black nostril marks and sew to head.)

Ears/Brown/Off-white Color:

Row 1: Chain 6. Dc in 4 chain from hook. 2 dc in same stitch. 1 dc, 3 dc in last stitch.

Row 2 and on: Dc in each stitch with extra dc on each end. The ear will curve if you do the same number of stitches or decrease at the top parts. Continue until the ear is the size you want. Sew to sides of the head above wear your ears would go.

Pom Pom: The pom pom can be made as full and long as desired. There are pom pom makers for sale, but one can be made quickly on one’s hand. Simply wrap the yarn around the palm of your hand. To make longer strands spread your fingers apart and wrap around those. (The more times you wrap the yarn around your hand the fuller the pom pom will be.) Tie a piece of yarn around the middle of the bundle of yarn. Cut the loops on the top and bottom and you have a pom pom. You may want to trim the ends if they are very uneven.

Android Hat

Want to be the man in the machine? Now you can with this crocheted Android hat! I designed this hat for my brother-in-law who is somewhat of an expert on Droid. (You can check out his website, Use My Droid, for lots of tips and tricks.) This hat can be made with or without arms, and though I added a lining, one is not required.

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The directions for the crocheted version of the Android hat are written below. Click on Android Hat for the PDF version.

Materials:

85 grams Red Heart Soft Guacamole yarn

Remnant Red Heart Soft Off White yarn

Or medium worsted weight yarn of your choice

Size H hook (5 mm)

Abbreviations:

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Dec = decrease (crochet 2 together)

Hat Directions

Using green color

Chain 2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook. Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd 2: Chain 3 (count as first double crochet), dc in same stitch. 2 dc in each stitch remaining. Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd 3: Chain 3, 2 dc in next stitch. *1 dc, 2 dc in next stitch* (repeat pattern in * around). Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd 4: Chain 3, dc, 2 dc in next stitch. *2 dc, 2 dc in next stitch* around. Join.

Rnd 5: Chain 3, 2 dc, 2 dc in next stitch. *3 dc, 2 dc in next stitch* around. Join.

Rnd 6: Chain 3, 3 dc, 2 dc in next stitch. *4 dc, 2 dc in next stitch* around. Join.

Note: To make a larger hat, continue the pattern of increases until you get the circumference desired.

Rnd 7-15: Chain 3, dc around. Join with slip stitch. (Do as many rounds needed to get the length desired.)

Rnd 16-17: Switch to off white yarn. Chain 3, dc around. Join with slip stitch. Cut yarn. Weave in end.

If more length is desired in the back, a few short rows can be added. Using green, connect it to any stitch:

Row 18: Chain 3, 41 dc, turn

Row 19: Chain 3, dc dec, 38 dc, turn

Row 20: Chain 3, dc dec, 36 dc. Cut yarn and weave in end.

Antennae (make 2)

( Leave a long tail in the beginning for sewing the antennae to the hat.)

Chain 7. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Rnd 1-7: Sc around. Do not join with a slip stitch, rather continue sc around until the antennae is about 1 ½ inches tall (3.5 cm) or height desired.

Rnd 8: 3 dec. Finish with a slip stitch. Cut yarn, pick up each stitch to pull tightly closed. Knot and weave in end.

Eyes (make 2)

Chain 2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook. Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd 2: chain 3 (count as first double crochet), dc in same stitch. 2 dc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms/Ear Flaps (make 2)

Chain 13

Rnd 1: Dc in 3rd chain from hook. Dc in each stitch until the last one. 6 dc in last stitch. Working on the other side of the chain stitches dc across. 5 dc in same stitch as the original chain 3 space. Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd 2: Chain 3. 11 dc, 2 dc in next two stitches, 3 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next two stitches, 11 dc, 2 dc in next two stitches, 3 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, dc in same stitch as chain 3 stitch. Join. (Add or subtr

act dc stitches on the ends to keep the arm flat as needed.)

Rnd 3: Chain 3. 13 dc, 2 dc in next seven stitches, 13 dc, 2 dc in next seven stitches. Join. Cut yarn and leave a long end for sewing on to hat.

Placement

Eyes: The eyes are somewhat wide originally, but when the hat is worn, the eyes seem farther apart. Sew them on approximately two rows above the white and 6 stitches apart.

Antennae: They are sewn on round 5 at the midline.

Arms: These can be sewn on the ends of the extensions of the hat or on the white band. For best results, the hat should be tried on and the arms sewn where the ears line up.

Optional: A fleece lining can be sewn inside.

Fair Isle for Special Olympics

Many states are collecting scarves for the 2011 Special Olympics. And because I can’t do anything basic, I decided to make some scarves with Fair Isle! Thanks to Peggy Jean Kaylor and Crafty Knit Chicks for the Special Olympics logo and star graphs. Wanting to create a little Fair Isle work myself, I came up with a snowflake chart/grid, with the help of my sister. (I gave my sister the first pattern, which didn’t turn out too well! My second attempt turned out much better.)

The graph for the Special Olympics logo can by found on Ravelry. The star chart can be found at the Crafty Knit Chicks website. Though they are both written as knit patterns, they both can be crocheted using single crochet. I did the star with half double crochet, but that elongated the star a little bit.

The scarves are approximately 23 stitches wide. Per the requirements, the scarves are crocheted with Red Heart blue and turqua yarn. They are all approximately 6 inches wide x 54-60 inches long. They were made with a size H hook, though the requirements for the Olympics scarves project doesn’t mandate a specific pattern or hook size.

Not sure what Fair Isle knitting or crocheting is? Check out my post on Fair Isle vs. Intarsia.

Snowflake Scarf pattern – PDF

Basic snowflake scarf instructions

Pattern

Color A

Chain 23

Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook and each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 2: (1sc, 1dc) in 2nd chain from hook. Skip the next stitch. *(1 sc, dc) in next stitch, skip next stitch* across to the last two stitches. Sc in last two stitches.

Rows 3-25: Follow the pattern on the chart using sc for each stitch. Chain 1 and turn at the end of each row. (The chart can be found here in the Snowflake Scarf pattern.)

Color A for the X’s, color B on the blank spots.

Row 26: Repeat row 2

Row 27: Chain 3 (count as first dc). (Dc, ch-1, 2dc) in next stitch. Skip 3 stitches. *(2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next stitch* across. The last dc should be made in the last stitch.

Row 28: Repeat row 2 except skip all the ch-1 spaces of the previous row.

Row 29-30: Repeat rows 27 and 2.

Row 31: Chain 3, dc across.

Repeat Row 31 until the scarf measures approximately 50 inches in length (about 76 rows).

Row 107-110: Repeat rows 2 and 27 twice.

Row 111: Repeat row 2.

Rows 112-134: follow the snowflake chart.

Row 135: Repeat row 2.

Row 136: Sc across. Tie off; weave in end.

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