Skull Cap for Logan

One of the kids in the youth group saw the skull hat I knit for my husband and he asked if I could make him one. Because I crochet faster than I knit, I decided to design a crocheted one for him. The hat is made starting from the brim and works to the top. The brim is crocheted in rows in the rib stitch. This pattern assumes you already know how to change colors when crocheting and how to read a chart. You can use the fair isle or intarsia method for changing colors.  I did a modified fair isle where I stranded the yarn not used in the back for about every other stitch and crochet over top the unused color every other stitch just in the area where the skull pattern was. I did not carry the red yarn around the back of the hat. I started a new piece of red yarn for each row. This made for quite a few ends to weave in, but kept the inside of the hat neat and clean looking.

 

Materials

Yarn: Two colors of medium worsted weight yarn of your choice: hat color (black) and skull color (red). Red Heart yarn is pictured.

Hook: H/8/5.00mm

Skull Chart in PDF format

Yarn Needle for sewing in ends (optional)

Gauge: 3 sc = 1 inch; 3 rows = 1 inch

Size Made: 8 inches from brim to top and 10 ½ inches across when laid flat. This fits a teen/adult female head.

 

Abbreviations

Ch = chain

Dec = crochet two together

Rnd = round

Sc = single crochet

Sc dec = single crochet two stitches together

Sl St = slip stitch

St = stitch

 

Hat Instructions

Black (or hat color)

Ch 6

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and next four ch stitches. (5)

Row 2-68: Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loops only of each st across. (5)

Row 69: Bring rows 1 and 68 together to form the brim of the hat making sure it’s not twisted. Sc row 1 to row 68. (5)

 

From this point forward you will be working in rounds. Turn the brim so you can work along the end/top of each row.

Rnd 1: Sc on the end of each row. Join with a slip stitch. (68)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 31 sc. Start the skull pattern from the chart.The 31 sc takes you to the first color change at the bottom of the chart where the teeth start. The chart is read from right to left. Each stitch not on the chart, the back side of the hat, is done in single crochet with no increases or decreases. When you get to the end of the round, do not join. Continue working in rounds. (68)

Rnd 3: Skip the ch 1 stitch from rnd 2. Continue around using the chart as a guide.

Rnd 4-18: Use the chart to complete the skull pattern. Each stitch not on the chart is single crocheted with no increases or decreases. There are three decreases in each of the rows 16-18. The blackened spaces on the chart should be ignored as they are the stitches taken out by the decreases of previous rows. They do not count as single crochets or decreases. Consider them non-stitches.

Stitch count after each decrease round:

Rnd 16 (65)

Rnd 17 (62)

Rnd 18 (59)

 

59 stitches left after completing the skull pattern.

Rnd 19: 3 sc. *Dec, 6 sc* seven times. (52)

Rnd 20: 3 sc. *Dec, 5 sc* seven times. (45)

Rnd 21: 3 sc. *Dec, 4 sc* seven times. (38)

Rnd 22: 3 sc. *Dec, 3 sc* seven times. (31)

Rnd 23: 3 sc. *Dec, 2 sc* seven times. (24)

Rnd 24: 3 sc. *Dec, sc* seven times. (17)

Rnd 25: Sc. *Dec* seven times.(10)

Rnd 26: Dec five times. (5)

Finish off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Pull yarn through each of the remaining stitches and pull tight to close the top. Weave in end.

 

For a taller hat, I did fewer decreases in each row. For the very long hat I did about 1-2 decreases per row and changed colors approximately every 8 rows.

 

Pom-Pom Topper

Ch 13

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 11 sc. (12)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing to the top of the hat.

Make a pom-pom. Attach that to the end of the pom-pom topper.

 

How to make a simple pom-pom: For a quick and easy pom-pom, I wrap the yarn around my hand several times. The more wraps, the thicker the pom-pom. I pull the yarn off my hand and pull a piece of yarn through the middle and tie it tightly around the strands that used to be at the top of my hand. I cut the strands that were at the bottom of my hand and trim the ends so they are somewhat even. The pom-pom can then be attached to the topper. I use the same piece of yarn that I used to tie the pom-pom.

 

Baby Bear Hat

A local hospital is in need of baby items, so I thought I’d make the classic bear hat. In lieu of bulky yarn, I decided to make this hat with two strands of yarn held together. Though the ears look cute with just the regular yarn, I decided to add the fun fur to give it some extra cuteness. Though it looks nice with the fun fur, it can be a little difficult to work with. It tends to cover the stitches making them hard to see, but it is worth the effort. I can’t guarantee the sizing as I don’t have access to a baby or even a doll! I am guessing it’s for a 6-12 month old or so.

Click on Crocheted Bear Baby Hat for a PDF version of this pattern.

Materials:

Caron Simply Soft Chocolate (brown), bone (tan), black

Lion Brand Fun Fur Brown

Hook size K

Stuffing like polyfil

 

Size: 5 inches tall (not including the ears) and 6 ½ inches wide when folded flat.

 

Abbreviations

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Dc inc = double crochet increase; 2 dc in the same st

Hdc = half double crochet

Hdc dec = half double crochet two stitches together

Hdc inc = 2 half double crochet in one stitch

Sc = single crochet

Sc dec = single crochet two stitches together

Sl st = slip stitch

 

Bear Hat

Brown, holding two strands of yarn at once

Ch 2

Rnd 1: 8 sc in second ch from hook. Join with a sl st. (8)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, count as first dc. 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st. (16)

Rnd 3: Ch 3. *Dc inc, dc* 8 times, dc inc. Join with a sl st.(24)

Rnd 4: Ch 3. *Dc inc, 2 dc* seven times. Dc inc, dc. Join with a sl st. (32)

Rnd 5: Ch 3. *Dc inc, 3 dc* seven times. Dc inc, 2 dc. Join with a sl st. (40)

Rnd 6-8: Ch 3. Dc around. Join with a sl st. (40)

For added length, add one more round.

 

Ears (make 2)

Holding one strand of brown yarn and one strand fun fur.

Ch 2

Rnd 1: 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around. (10)

Rnd 3: 2 hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st. Finish off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew to the hat.(20)

Sew the ears to the hat on approximately rows 3-5.

Mouth

Tan, two strands held double, crocheted at the same time.

Ch 9

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each stitch across. Ch 1, turn. (8)

Row 2-4: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (8)

Row 5: Sc dec, 4 sc, sc dec.  Ch 1, turn. (6)

Row 6: Sc dec, 2 sc, sc dec. (4)

Row 7: Sc around the whole outside, at the ends of each row and along the top and bottom. Do not put extra stitches in the corner. This will give it a raised three dimensional look. Sl st into the first stitch. Finish off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew the hat. Add a little stuffing/polyfil to give it a little depth. (24)

Nose

Black, one strand.

Ch 2

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook. Ch 1, turn. (1)

Row 2: Sc inc. Ch 1, turn. (2)

Row 3: Sc inc in both stitches. Ch 1, turn.  (4)

Row 4: Sc inc, 2 sc, sc inc. Finish off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew black nose to tan nose. Be sure to sew a line below the nose as well. (6)

Eyes (make 2)

Black, one strand of yarn.

Ch 2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Sc inc in each stitch around. Sl st into the next st. Finish off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew the eyes to the face above the nose. (12)

 

 

Jeep Yarn Bomb

A friend saw my ninja side-view mirror cozy and casually mentioned wanting an antennae cozy. Whether said in jest or not, he got his request! We occasionally climb together and he is an avid runner, so I incorporated those into the two bombs I made. First was the antennae. At first I pictured something dangling off the top (a butterfly), but I was afraid it would get ripped off with the wind (or by him). Next I thought of something that could be more aerodynamic. The shoes are meant to look like they are in mid stride and have a slight feel of Converse. It was a little breezy that day and the shoes act as a kind of weather vane. They turn with the flow of the wind! It is hard to tell from the picture, but the shoes are two dimensional, skinnier than the antennae cozy itself. My friend said the cozy was cute, then mentioned possibly giving it to his daughter. Hmmm. Must be too cute for his taste!

I’ve never made an antennae cozy before and I’m not sure how secure they are. This one is three rows of sc with a slip stitch row to close it around the antennae. I put a few stitches at the top and bottom to make it more secure and hopefully stay on. Almost everything is made from Red Heart yarn and a size H hook.

As a bonus, I also made a side view mirror cozy following my directions for rectangular side-view mirrors. This Jeep mirror was almost a perfect rectangle with the same depth all around. That made crocheting it a breeze! I usually test the cozy on the mirror as I go, but I didn’t have access to this mirror. Turns out the measurements were enough. With a quick button, this cozy went on lickety split.

The mirror is mounted in a different place than the previous mirrors I’ve covered. I just needed to be careful where to leave a gap when crocheting the portion that would go on the depth of the mirror. The item I stitched onto the cozy is a replica of a piece of climbing equipment called a quickdraw and “climb on” is a command spoken from a belayer to a climber.

The cozy itself was made using a size L hook and Red Heart yarn using dc. The quickdraw and words were made using a size E and H hook. Perhaps next I should make a cozy that says “crochet on” with crochet hooks!

 

Floral Vine Cozy Yarn Bomb

This pretty floral vine stop sign cozy is quick, easy and attractive. Made of vines and flowers, this can be wrapped around posts, pillars, or columns of any size. One skein of each color can make multiple cozies.

Click on Floral Vine Stop Sign Yarn Bomb for the directions in PDF format.

Directions

Materials:

Yarn: Any kind of worsted weight yarn in green, yellow, white, and purple. Red Heart yarn is pictured. Flowers can be done in any color.

Hook: Size H or larger. Size L was used for the vine and flowers pictured.

Yarn Needle

 

Abbreviations:

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Rnd = round (working in the round rather than rows)

Sc = single crochet

Sl st = slip stitch

Tr = triple (treble) crochet

 

 

Vine

Using green, chain to the length desired. 6 feet or more is recommended to cover a significant portion of a common street sign like stop signs or median signs (See picture).

Row 1: Dc in third ch from hook. Dc in next 19 stitchs. Crochet a leaf pattern (directions below) at the top of the last dc stitch made. *10 dc, leaf pattern* across the length of the original chain until approximately the last 20 stitches. Do not crochet a leaf pattern for the last 20-25 chain stitches. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Leaf Pattern: Ch 3, [dc, trc, dc] in the top of the last dc made. Ch 3, slip stitch in the same stitch as the others for the leaf.

Flowers (Make enough flowers for one to go in the spaces between each leaf of the vine. If using two floral colors, half the flowers should be in one color, half in another.)

Using yellow:

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook. Do not join. (6)

Rnd 2-3: Sc in each stitch around. Slip stitch into next stitch, and weave in end. (6)

Switch to a petal color like white or purple

Rnd 4: In each of the six stitches work the petal pattern (directions below). Join the last petal to the first with a slip stitch; leave a long tail for sewing.

Petal Pattern: [Sc, dc, tr, dc, sc] in the same stitch

 

Sew a flower of alternating colors in between leaves of the vine. Do not put a flower on the ends.

Using a yarn needle attached to yarn at the end of the vine, the vine can be pulled through a hole on the stop sign post (See picture). This will keep the vine from slipping over time. Pull the end of the vine through the hole, wrap it around the pole and sew it to the vine at a little lower point. Wrap the floral vine around the post making sure the flowers are pointed in the correct direction. The vine can be wrapped so that it is close together or spread out to cover the whole post. Secure the bottom of the vine like the top. Use a yarn needle to pull the bottom through a hole in the post. Wrap it around until it meets another part of the vine. Sew it together.

 

Horse Tapestry Yarn Bomb

I suspect my brother finds my yarn fetish a little odd. I mean how many attractive practical uses are there for crocheted or knitted projects? I also suspect that he finds yarn bombing a little pointless. Which is why he was the perfect candidate for a yarn bomb! His wife loves horses, so I made a horse tapestry for their gate.

I originally intended to hang the tapestry on the main part of the front gate, but it is not constructed well for it. I ended up putting it on the side part.

The tapestry is attached to cozies wrapped around the bars. The cozies are made with a size N hook done in double crochets. The tapestry itself is made with single crochets using a size L hook. I transfered a woodcutting image onto graph paper in order to crochet the image. The yarn is Red Heart Super Saver. The mood was crocheted separately and sewn on. I didn’t think a circle would show up as nicely in the tapestry.

I put it up before a snowstorm blew in. I hope my brother and his wife see it before it gets snow covered!

Side-view Mirror Cozy – Rectangle


A side-view mirror cozy/cover is a quick way to personalize a vehicle, whether yours or someone else’s.   (The ninja was for my husband. The dog paw was a yarn bomb on my brother-in-law!) While I can’t give specific directions to fit every side-view mirror, I can give basic directions that will work for most rectangular shaped mirrors (or mirrors that are kind of rectangular in shape).  For a mostly rectangular shaped mirror, you will crochet a rectangle, then make it 3-dimensional by doing the sides. By leaving one of the edges unconnected, the cozy can be brought around the front and buttoned closed so that it can be quickly attached or removed. The pictures below will explain.

Click Side-view Mirror Cozy – Rectangle for a PDF version.

Materials:

Yarn: Acrylic medium worsted weight of your choice. I chose black so that it would be a little subtle and because that was the color of the mirror to begin with. I don’t think my husband would cotton to a bright colored mirror cozy!

Hook: Size L (or size desired to get gauge or tightness of stitches)

Needle: If you plan to decorate the cozy, a large needle will be needed to sew on objects.

Button: The button should fit between stitches but not be so little that it doesn’t stay fastened.

Abbreviations:

Dc = double crochet

Sc = single crochet

Step 1: Measure

First, measure the size of the mirror: back, top, bottom, and sides. There should be somewhat of a basic rectangular shape to the back of the mirror. If you are lucky, the two sides will be a similar size and the top and bottom will be similar. If not, you may have to change your stitches as you go. The mirror above is basically 9 inches wide, 6 inches tall, and 2.5 inches deep.

Step 2: Gauge

With a size L hook, I get about 3 stitches and 2 rows to an inch. With a size H hook, I get about 4 stitches per inch.

Step 3: Make the Base Rectangle

Using a size L hook, figure 3 stitches per inch. Multiply the number of inches the back of the mirror is from side to side by 3. (My mirror was 9 inches wide. 9×3=27). That’s how many chains stitches to make.

Chain 27 (or however many your mirror needs.)

Row 1: Chain 2 more (to count as the first dc). Dc in 4th chain from hook and each chain across. (27)

Row 2: Chain 2 (count as first dc), turn, dc across.

Row 3-7: Chain 2, turn, dc across. (*Note: you may need to do more or fewer than 7 rows depending on the height of your mirror.)

Step 4: Make the Sides/Top/Bottom

Determine which corner of the rectangle will go where the mirror attaches to the side of the vehicle. For instance, while looking at the back of the driver’s side mirror, the corner that attaches to the vehicle is usually the bottom left corner. In that case, the left side will not be attached to the bottom part of the project as it is made. (See picture above. Cozy pictured is facing the wrong way. It looks like the bottom right is not attached, but when it is turned and put on the truck, it will be the bottom left. If you do the wrong side, the cozy can be turned inside out and used!)

Row 8: Chain 2, turn; dc to the end. Turn the work to crochet down the side. Make 2 dc on each dc post to the end. Turn the work to crochet along the bottom (which was your initial chain). Dc in each stitch to the end. Turn the work to crochet along the last side. Work 2 dc on each dc post to the end. DO NOT JOIN! Chain 2, turn.

Row 9: Dc in each stitch around. Chain 2, turn.

Row 10: Dc in each stitch around.

(*Note: You  may want to check the project on the mirror it will go on, if possible. This will give you an idea of whether you need to do any more rows.)

Continue making dc rows until the width of the mirror is met. It is best if the cozy fits snuggly.

Row 11/Last Row: Sc dec (sc 2 together) around. Do not join. Cut yarn, weave in end.

Make sure the cozy fits. Figure out which corner you will sew the button to.

Sew on the button.

Crochet decorations or add decorations as desired. See pattern below for dog paw print.

Large Paw Pad

Chain 5

Row 1: Skip the first 3 chains. Dc in last two  chains. Chain 2, turn.

Row 2: Dc in 3rd from hook, dc, 2 dc in last stitch. Chain 2, turn.

Row 3: Dc in 3rd from hook, 3 dc, 2 dc in last  stitch. Chain 2, turn.

Row 4: Dc in 3rd from hook, dc, 3 slip stitch, dc, 2 dc in last stitch

Toes (make 4):

Chain 2

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook. Chain 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in the stitch, chain 1, turn.

Row 3: 2sc, chain 1, turn

Row 3: 1 sc dec (single crochet 2 together). Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Notes

*Some mirrors may have tapered sides that are narrower at the top and wider at the bottom. In this case, I suggest making sc’s along the narrow sections and dc on the wider sections. For example, when working on the side piece, do half the stitches dc and half of them sc (or a third of each with hdc stitches in between). This will allow for the cozy to fit more snuggly and prevent the cozy from covering up too much of the mirror on the front.

**These directions are made with dc’s around. This leaves gaps between stitches, but allows the cozy to stretch more easily. The cozy can be made with sc’s. Simply adjust for gauge. It will more than likely start with the same number of stitches on the foundation chain, just require more rows to get the height and depth.

Weaving in Ends

Though weaving in ends may never be an enjoyable part of knitting and crocheting, there are a couple things you can do to make it more enjoyable, and maybe almost fun!

Tip #1: Leave an end long enough to weave in with a large needle. Before purchasing a needle long enough for yarn, I used a crochet hook to pull the end through stitches. Occasionally I still forget to leave a long tail and have to use a crochet hook though it’s much faster to use a needle.

Tip #2: If you are still going to crochet or knit, the end(s) can be crocheted over and locked into the stitches or knit with for several stitches. Crocheting over or knitting with the tails for 5 or 6 stitches will usually be enough to lock the tails in.

Tip #3: Use a smaller crochet hook than used for the project. The hook will fit in the stitches easier and quicker.

Tip #4: After weaving in the end(s), pull the tail a little tightly so the project almost puckers a little. Cut the end(s) close to the project; then straighten the project so the end hides in the stitches.

Recently a group of us made a bunch of scarves for the Special Olympics. One knitter didn’t have a crochet hook to weave in the tails at the color changes. Thankfully she left long tails that I could tuck in with a needles. With the needle I could make quick work of the task and almost enjoyed it!

Blue Butterfly Pillow

The beautiful blue butterfly has long been one of my favorites. Using single crochet and a little Fair Isle, I made this pillow. This beautiful blue butterfly is crocheted right into the pillow! Though I used Fair Isle, this could be made using the intarsia method or by simply cutting and tying on the the colors of yarn as needed. Below are the basic instructions.

Blue Butterfly Pillow Pattern

Click on Blue Butterfly Pillow for the pattern which includes the chart for the front of the pillow.

Materials

Yarn: Remnants of 4 colors of medium worsted weight

Pictured: Red Heart Super Saver pink (color not lettered on the grid), black (color A on grid), blue (B), and turqua (C)

Hook: Size H, or hook to get gauge or to get the size of pillow desired.

Beads: 16 – 4mm sized beads; 8 pink and 8 blue

Needle: Large sewing needles to sew veins of the butterfly wings

Gauge: 4 stitches and 4 rows = 1 inch

Dimensions of Finished Pillow: 9  ¾ x 6 ¾

Abbreviations:

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

Sc = single crochet

St = stitches

YO = yarn over

Front

Chain 40

Row 1: starting in second chain from hook, sc across. Chain 1, turn. (39)

Row 2-3: Skip ch-1 space, sc across. Chain 1, turn. (39)

Rows 4-25: Follow the color guide using the grid/chart  to change colors. A = black (or color 1), B = Blue (or color 2), C = turqua (or color 3), and the empty spaces are pink (or color 4). Cut yarn, weave in end. Click on Blue Butterfly Pillow for the chart.

Sew beads onto black area of the butterfly wings as shown in the picture.

For extra dimension, another layer of the butterfly can be crocheted on top of the black body portion. This can be done by crocheting around the posts of the pillow and dc in short 2 dc long rows.

Sew antennae to the head of the butterfly.

Using blue, stitch veins on the butterfly’s wings. Follow the picture or create your own pattern.

Back

Chain 40

Row 1: starting in second chain from hook, *sc and dc in same stitch, skip a stitch* across to last two stitches. Sc in last stitch. Chain 1, turn.

Row 2-17: Skip chain 1 space, *sc and dc in same stitch, skip a stitch* across to last two stitchs. Sc in last stitch. Do not cut yarn.

*Note: You may need to do more or less rows to make the back side the same height as the front side.

Edging

Put the front and back pieces together, wrong sides in (facing each other).

Round 1: Reverse sc around, 1 reverse sc per stitch/row and 3 in each corner. Cut yarn, weave in loose end.

Fair Isle Crocheting

Fair Isle crocheting is when colors are “carried” along and used when needed. The unneeded yarn for the stitch is actually crocheted on top of so that the strand can be brought along and hidden until it is needed. Then the needed color is used and the unneeded color is crocheted on top of. To make sure the color changes are seamless, the new color is used to complete the last part of the previous stitch (see Note A). In order to prevent having to tie a bunch of knots, a color can be carried for 5 stitches before it is going to be used. This will lock the yarn into place and it will be ready to be used when that color comes up in the pattern.

A problem with Fair Isle crocheting with multiple colors is that when several colors are carried, the stitches become bigger around and the work can begin to bow. This is less likely to occur in intarsia crocheting. Multiple strands can also result in the balls of yarn becoming easily tangled. Using smaller balls that can be more easily moved around can help make this less of a chore.

*Note A: To change colors, complete all but the last part of the stitch of the old color. The new color should be used for the last YO and pull through the loops. For example, a sc is made by inserting the hook into the stitch, YO, pull through the stitch, YO and pull through 2 loops on the hook. When changing colors, the first YO is done in the old color, the second YO and pull through the two loops on the hook is done in the new color.

Intarsia

Intarsia crocheting is when there is a ball/bobbin of yarn for each color change. The yarn is “dropped” at the end of the use and picked back up and used on the next row on the way back. Dropped yarn is left dangling on one side of the work. Like Fair Isle, the old color does most of the last stitch of the old color; the new color should be used to complete the last YO of the stitch. (See Note A for a more detailed explanation.)

***When crocheting with Fair Isle or Intarsia, it may be necessary to “carry” a color for a few/several stitches if the color will start a few/several stitches earlier in the next row. This will prevent a length of stranded yarn from appearing in the work.

***It is best to choose a front/right side when making the butterfly section. Dropping and picking up yarn from the front or back can affect how well stitches look and how well strands are hidden.

Median Sign Yarn Tag

This median sign looked a little chilly.  A little sweater ought to keep it warm. Located in Colorado Springs, this yarn bomb tag is made from various types of yarn using a size L hook.

Max of Where the Wild Things Are

Where the Wild Things Are was one of my favorite books as a child. I decided to make a Max doll for a nephew for Christmas. Based on Morgan’s pattern, this little Max doll was modified in several areas.

Crocheted with a size E hook using Red Heart yarn, this adorable Max doll has a removable crown and a hood that does down. The hair is hooked on one strand at a time and trimmed to the desired height. I decided to make crocheted claws on the hands and feet. The ends of the hands and feet also have pads like a wolf. The scepter is sewn into Max’s hand. There are also whiskers attached to the hood. The tail is made from grey fun yarn.

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